Noorma Rosita and Diana and Diana Winarita and Tristiana Erawati and Widji Soeratri (2014) Effect of β-Cyclodextrin on SPF Value and Inhibition of Kojic Acids Tirosinase Activity In Vanishing Cream Base Formulation (On Sunscreen Product Contained Oxybenzone). In: Proceeding The 1st International Gonference on Pharmaceutics & Pharmaceutical Sciences. Faculty of Pharmacy Universitas Airlangga, Surabaya, pp. 193-196. ISBN 978-602-72333-0-0

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Abstract

Newly, we found many cosmetics combined of sunscreen substance and lightening agent in their ingridients. Kojic acid is a skin lightening agent which has very small molecular size, so easily absorbed up through the basal membrane. Because of its small molecule, kojic acid hardly absorbed through the lipid membrane of its target sites, the melanocytes (Manosroi et al, 2005) and can penetrate into the systemic (Nakayama et al., 2005). It is likely absorbed through voids between cells on the skin. Kojic acid is pro­duced mainly by microbial fermentation us­ing aspergillus and penicillium spp. In in vivo test, cream containing kojic acid compounds have been reported as effective in prevent­ing pigmentation changes in human skin due to exposure to UVA and UVB. This inhibition has been shown to be due to chelation of Cu, a prosthetic group in tyrosinase (Barel et all, 2001). Cream contained 1 % of kojic acid showed steady but slow whitening effect. 14C­ labeled kojic acid cream was observed to be quickly absorbed from the skin to the liver, intestines, and kidneys in mice. When the absorption was thus quick, the depigmentation agent did not stay at the epidermis where it had its target organ, me­lanocytes, for a long enough time to inhibit melanogenesis. Therefore, kojic acid was mixed with β-cyclodextrin to slow the absorp­tion into the dermis (Elsner and Maibach, 2005). Losses due to kojic acid to the systemic is not able to work effectively inhibits melanin formation took place in the basal membrane of skin that results are not optimal lightening effect. Addition of β-cyclodextrin reported can decrease penetration of kojic acid (Na­kayama et al., 2005). Cyclodextrins are cyclic oligosaccha-rides with a hydrophilic outer surface and a somewhat hydrophobic central cavity. Cyclodextrins are able to form inclusion complexes with many drugs by taking up the drug molecule, or a li­pophilic moiety of the molecule, into the cav­ity (Loftsson and O'Fee, 2003). Sunscreen agents, such as: oxybenzone andoctyl dimethyl PABA, are commonly present in whitening products to compensate for the photosensitivity effect caused by the whiten­ing agent. This combination is more efficient but may have a profound effect on the efficacy of the sunscreen agent. Therefore, this study was aimed to investigate the SPF value of sunscreen product contained oxybenzone and octyl dimetyl PABA (3:7) with the addition of kojic acid 1% b/b as whitening agent and their complex with β-cyclodextrin in 1:1 molar equivalent. In this research, we also studied the effect of b-Cyclodextrin (BCD) on penetration of Kojic Acid, as lightening sub­stance In Vanishing Cream Base Formulation (on Sunscreen Product Contained Oxyben­zone), by determination of tyrosinase activity inhibition.

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